Water purification system for household

[mygoggie]

I also did the drain valve, emergency overflow and inlet valves for the sand filter.

Here are the three pipes and valves installed.

The outlet feed to the pressure pump going into the ground

Now I need to open up the sand compartment drain valves and piping to connect that to the newly installed drain piping.

 

[mygoggie]

Time to install the final run of piping for the drainage line.

It took quite a bit of time as I had to measure in three dimensions and get the sequence of gluing right to ensure I could get the pipes and fittings all glued correctly.

Here is the first dry run on the installed pipes and fittings.

Completed with the sleeper cut to fit and the gravel surfaces restored.

 

[mygoggie]

Onto installing the inlet pipes and valves.

I first had to measure out where the inlet manifold valves will be located. This took a while since I had to measure on the sand filter side of wall and then draw the dimensions on the other side of the wall.

The first try and holding thumbs that the hole is correctly located. Drilled out the plank and then cut it with a keyhole saw.

Not too shabby in my measurements as the hole I cut was located spot on!

Both holes cut and tidied up.

The first valve installed after cutting the threaded nipple to the required length.

And both valves installed.

 

[mygoggie]

Next step is installing the pipes that feed the inlet manifolds and conduit for the level sensor's cable.

The first try worked out great even though I had to make a plan as buying fittings are not an option. I had to heat the uPVC pipe and bend it to suit the route without damaging the pipe walls.

All done.

A bit of grey paint will make the pipes blend in very well against the wood wall. I am happy with the result.

Before I close up the trench, I have to install the bolts holding vertical rib's tie beams together. I started off with the easy corners.

At the top corners, I had to recess the one bolt to allow the lids to fit over the bolt head. I will need to get the hole sealed as the wood will rot if not protected.

To get into the corners behind the wall, I had to undo some planking to get my hands into the space behind the wall. Not serious as I can screw the planks back into place once I have completed the bolting exercise.

Tomorrow I will finish up the outstanding front ribs, and the one lower tie beam on the one side. Let's see how far I can get with that!

 

[mygoggie]

The tedious job of making covers for the valve openings was up for execution.

It looks like a simple job, but these are deceivingly tedious jobs. The top cover will be a removable door screwed to the wall covering the opening from the top half of the pipes to the top of the opening. The bottom section will be permanent and will be screwed into place.

The first step was to make a backing bar for the bottom planks to be screwed to. I used some brandering from my scrap heap and cut this to length.

The length looks good.

Creating a recess in the bar to allow the valve's union ring to be loosened.

After I cut the bottom planks, I could measure where the cutout for the pipe should be. Drilling the cutout using a hole saw with a backing piece of scrap to drill into as a guide for the hole saw.

Looking good

The other opening's spanned over two planks so I had to clamp all the planks in the vice and drill these while clamped as a board.

The left hand valve opening's bottom section in place.

Both openings bottom halves done.

Making the two top halves. Here are all the planks cut, frames sized and being glued.

Glued and screwed together awaiting cutting of the pipe cutouts.

And all done!

I will varnish these now and then screw them in place.

 

[mygoggie]

And there we are, all covers on the one side of the wall installed and varnished.

On the other section of wall, the bottom halves are done. This was not an easy job as there are only small distances to work with between pipe and wood surfaces. I still need to cut the top of the opening to make the edge straight. The one handle is in the way, so I think I will simply pull it off and cable tie it to the valve for future use.

 

[mygoggie]

Two more covers made today. This was a mission ...

Test fit and the right hand cover came out lower than the other one. So I had to remove the frame and adjust. No idea why this happened as I measured twice before assembling the frames. Anyway .. all good now. Will post a pic tomorrow.

I still need to fit some foam in the gap between wood and pipe as I do not want to go through a bee invasion and hiving exercise again ...

 

[mygoggie]

Covers done. Yeah!

Backfilled and leveled. I am making a wooden draw box that matches the two valve covers for the central located level float sleeve. This will look much better than a plastic 4x4 box.

 

[mygoggie]

I had a few questions on the other form so here is a copy of the post.

of your original list above, which have been ticked-off and how is it performing ?

The design incorporates the following components:

• Rainwater harvesting to a tank farm. <-- Constructed and performing well on revision 2.1.
  
• Condensation harvesting using an underground piping system. <-- Designed and BoQ compiled
  
• A hand drilled well point. <-- Done, still to install pump.
  
• Wetland system to purify the house's greywater. <-- Revision 11 done and working very very well for the last 7 years.
  
• Irrigation system to distribute the purified greywater into the garden. <-- Revision 3 done and working very well for the last 7 years.
  
• A biogas digester to generate gas from the blackwater and liquid fertilizer from the digestate. <-- Design done, moulds made 50%. Ran out of money for this. Pilot and research reactors that are 1/3 scale models performed better than mathematical models predicted. Research reactor has been running for almost 4 years continuously.
  
• A slow sand filter to purify the rainwater, condensation and well point water to potable standards. <-- 80% completed as in this thread
  
• A water purification skid to control all of the above and distribute the potable water into the house. <-- 60% completed as in this thread.

busy, busy & looking good

As always @RussellF ...

I notice from the pic on post #88 that part of the control panel is fully wired; which part is that ?
(and don't answer "the part on the left")

It is the mirror side of the part on the right. That is the control panel of the biogas reactor which has been in testing for four years now.

on the biogas ... is it for sewerage and such. is the effort worth the yield instead of say generating compost ?

Yes it is to purify sewerage and then all kitchen organic waste and such from the garden. The household reactor can produce enough gas per day to cook three full meals. Here is a marketing brochure on it.

... just shooting the breeze, don't want to keep you from your "busy, busy" stuff.

No issues at all. I need to get these systems into the designs of nature (green) based households and small communities for provision of working sewerage systems that provide clean sanitation and in turn results in free energy to cook with in the households. Add to this the communal cattle manure and you have so much energy it is actually a problem for the coal connected politicians. Been there, done all the proposals and was met with big thanks and support from the clan chiefs, but each time the mayors cancelled the project ...

Same with the water purification and greywater systems. These are simple to build and operated and proven to be highly effective. The design in this thread is the most complicated and parts of it can be pulled out and deployed in the communities.

Here is a typical community layout we did for a village in the Eastern Cape, where sewerage, rainwater and greywater etc goes to a central hub which forms a community building and from there it distributes back via the spokes to the households on the rim of the wagon wheel layout.

This tech meets with the cultural needs of such a clan and in turn solves all health, medical and social requirements.

By the way the green houses are built from rammed earth and include cooling and heating system using no electricity for cooling and heating. Based on the green houses in China. Status - Fully designed based on proven Chinese designs.